Thursday, May 31, 2012

The Philadelphia Story, Ladies Fashion



Adolph Adrian Greenburg, later simply known as Adrian, was Metro-Goldwyn Mayer’s chief costume designer from 1928. During his time at MGM he created costumes for the female studio stars such as Joan Crawford, Greata Garbo and most importantly Katherine Hepburn. He was considered to be the only designer powerful enough to impose his taste on a film’s director and therefore influence the style and look of the film. For The Philadelphia Story he created goddess gowns that magnified Katherine’s character, as well as structured suits and a few more delicate outfits that showed her vulnerable side. 

A 1940s film based on a 1939 play, all the outfits are heavily influenced by 1930s glamour. There are three key looks, smart suits, Grecian goddess and feminine chiffon. 



The most talked about gown in the movie is the Greek goddess white chiffon gown with stepped gold sequin belting and bodice decoration, emphasizing Katharine’s lean figure.To emulate this look go for cool coloured maxi dresses and add plenty of bling.


A full length pleated maxi dress with a high neck, if your not lucky enough to find something similar pair a cool coloured pleated maxi skirt with a similar top or sash. The brave can do like the greek goddeses do and throw it together like a toga.


A less Grecian version of the last dress, full length, high necked, long sleeved and pulled in at the waist with a white belt. 




The Softest look of the film is the dress that Katherine wears on her wedding day. Orchid white and full of flowing chiffon topped with a big silly hat. 



Katherine's smarter attire was kept fun with big pussy bows and pencil skirts ,simple shirts with big full skirts or jackets with big buttons. 
In complete contrast to Katherine, Ruth Hussey's outfits were always smart pencil skirts and suits sometimes made a little bit more daring with a sharp hat.


Wednesday, May 30, 2012

The Philadelphia Story Review


Tracy Lord (Hepburn), eligible daughter of a well-off Philadelphian family due to marry an earnest nerdy type when her first husband returns to keep an eye on the charming male reporter assigned to cover the society wedding. They end up all keeping an eye on Tracy instead...who will she choose?

The facts speak for themselves. Here we have a new 35mm print of this delicious romantic comedy, first released in 1940, that clearly has enough zip and drive to lick the cream of today's crop. Sure, it may not have the advantage of Technicolor, rude jokes or top production values but just one look at The Philadelphia Story and the message is: they really don't make 'em like this any more. 

The magic formula is in the plotting: Tracy Lord (Hepburn), eligible daughter of a well-off Philadelphian family, is due to marry a blue-collar nerd (John Howard) when her previous husband Dexter Haven (Grant) shows up at her door. Haven has returned to keep an eye on Mike Connor (Stewart), a hack for scandal rags Dime and Spy who is covering the wedding. As the ceremony looms, Dexter stokes an old fire for Tracy while Mike stokes up a new one. By the end of the movie, everyone wants to stoke Tracy, such is the charm of Hepburn in one of her most perfect roles. 

It is Stewart, however, who walks away effortlessly with the picture (and an Oscar). Director George Cukor, in his romantic element, proves just what a peerless entertainer he was. Grant may be just Grant - debonair, dashing and dry as sawdust - yet he perfectly dovetails with a cast which teeters on the cusp of perfection. The overriding message may well be cringeworthy - we're all the same yet somehow different! - but The Philadephia Story boasts qualities other movies merely dream of: prestige wit and drop dead glamour.

Verdict
Excellent casting, a great storyline and a shrp script mean that this remains a classic of the genre and one of Katherine Hepburn's best roles.


Reviewed by Jake Hamilton, Empire 

Film Fatale presents: The Philadelphia Story

Movie lovers, put on your glad rags and step back in time to a nostalgic Saturday night at the movies where you will immerse yourself in the world of your favourite classic films.   On Saturday the 9th June, Film Fatale will screen cinema legends, Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart in the hilarious comedy of manners The Philadelphia Story in The Sugar Club, Dublin. This screening of George Cukor’s sophisticated screwball comedy will be followed by a 1940s swing dance with live performances from The Bugle Babes — Ireland’s own version of the 1940s chart toppers the Andrews Sisters. While Film Fatale’s resident DJs, The Andrews Sisters’ Brothers will play music from the film’s era. The audience is invited to help set the scene by dressing in their vintage finest, paying homage to 1940s glamour or emulating the characters from the film.

The greatest screwball comedy of the 1940s, The Philadelphia Story is a tale of sex, class, bad manners and media intrusion. It features Katherine Hepburn who plays a socialite divorcée caught between flawed ex-husband Cary Grant and a respectable but somehow unsuitable fiancé (John Howard). Throw disgruntled novelist-reporter Jimmy Stewart and his colleague and special lady-friend (Ruth Hussey) into the mix, add a few too many bottles of champagne on the eve of the wedding and you have the makings of a great comic calamity.

This night of cinema nostalgia and old–style Hollywood sophistication will transport the audience back to the golden age of 1940s Hollywood for a night of film, vintage fashion, dancing and good old-fashioned fun.

Doors from 8pm

Tickets €15 are available from Entertainment.ie 
1940s Swing Dance from 11pm with tickets at the door (€5)


Friday, May 4, 2012

Roger Ebert on All About Eve

Growing older was a smart career move for Bette Davis, whose personality was adult, hard-edged and knowing. Never entirely comfortable as an ingenue, she was glorious as a professional woman, a survivor, or a bitchy predator. Her veteran actress Margo Channing in "All About Eve" (1950) was her greatest role; it seems to show her defeated by the wiles of a younger actress, but in fact marks a victory: the triumph of personality and will over the superficial power of beauty. She never played a more autobiographical role.

Davis' performance as a star growing older is always paired with another famous 1950 performance -- Gloria Swanson's aging silent star in "Sunset Boulevard." Both were nominated for best actress, but neither won; the Oscar went to Judy Holiday for "Born Yesterday," although Davis' fans claimed she would have won if her vote hadn't been split, ironically, by Anne Baxter, who plays her rival and was also nominated for best actress.

When you compare the performances by Davis and Swanson, you see different approaches to similar material. Both play great stars, now aging. Davis plays Margo Channing realistically, while Swanson plays Norma Desmond as a gothic waxwork. "Sunset Boulevard" seems like the better film today, maybe because it fits our age of irony, maybe because Billy Wilder was a better director than Joseph Mankiewicz. But Davis' performance is stronger than Swanson's, because it's less mad and more touching. Davis was a character, an icon with a grand style, so even her excesses are realistic.

The movie, written by Mankiewicz, begins like "Sunset Boulevard" with a narration by a writer - -the theater critic Addison DeWitt (George Sanders), bemused, cynical, manipulative. He surveys the room at a theatrical awards dinner, notes the trophy reserved for Eve Harrington (Baxter), and describes the survivors of Eve's savage climb to the top: her director Bill Sampson (Gary Merrill), her writer Lloyd Richards (Hugh Marlowe), Lloyd's wife Karen (Celeste Holm), who was her greatest supporter. And the idol she cannibalized, Margo. As the fatuous old emcee praises Eve's greatness, the faces of these people reflect a different story.

The movie creates Margo Channing as a particular person, and Eve Harrington as a type. Eve is a breathless fan, eyes brimming with phony sincerity. She worms her way into Margo's inner circle, becoming her secretary, then her understudy, then her rival. Faking humility and pathos is her greatest role, and at first only one person sees through it: crusty old Birdie (Thelma Ritter), Margo's wardrobe woman. "What a story!" she snaps. "Everything but the bloodhounds snappin' at her rear end."

Margo believes Eve's story of hard luck and adoration; no actor has much trouble believing others would want to devote their lives to them. Good, sweet Karen also sympathizes with the girl, and arranges to strand Margo in the country one weekend so that Eve can go on as her understudy. Karen is repaid when Eve tries to steal her playwright husband, after an earlier, unsuccessful attempt to steal Margo's fiance, Bill. He is played by Merrill (Davis' real-life husband), who turns her away with a merciless put-down: "What I go after, I want to go after. I don't want it to come after me."

Eve is a universal type. Margo plays at having an ego but is in love with her work -- a professional, not an exhibitionist. She's the real thing. But the sardonic tone of the film is set by Sanders, as DeWitt. He's the principal narrator, and with his cigarette holder, his slicked-down hair and his flawless evening dress, he sees everything with deep cynicism. He has his own agenda; while Eve naively tries to steal the men who belong to the women who helped her, Addison calmly schemes to keep Eve as his own possession. Sanders, who won the Oscar for best supporting actor, lashes her in one of the movie's most savage speeches: "Is it possible, even conceivable, that you've confused me with that gang of backward children you play tricks on? That you have the same contempt for me as you have for them?" And: "I am nobody's fool. Least of all, yours."

Glittering in the center of "All About Eve" is a brief supporting appearance by Marilyn Monroe. This film, and John Huston's "The Asphalt Jungle" earlier the same year, put her on the map; she was already "Marilyn Monroe," in every detail. She appears at Margo's party as DeWitt's date, and he steers her toward the ugly but powerful producer Max Fabian (Gregory Ratoff), advising her, "Now go and do yourself some good." Monroe sighs, "Why do they always look like unhappy rabbits?"

It has been observed that no matter how a scene was lighted, Monroe had the quality of drawing all the light to herself. In her brief scenes here, surrounded by actors much more experienced, she is all we can look at. Do we see her through the prism of her legend? Perhaps not; those who saw the movie in 1950, when she was unknown, also singled her out. Mankiewicz helped create her screen persona when he wrote this exchange after the Monroe character sees Margo's fur coat.

"Now there's something a girl could make sacrifices for," Monroe says.
"And probably has," says the director.
"Sable," Monroe explains.
"Sable?" asks the producer. "Did she say sable or Gable?"
Monroe replies: "Either one."

If Monroe steals her own scenes, the party sequence contains Davis' best work in the movie, beginning with her famous line, "Fasten your seat belts. It's going to be a bumpy night." Drinking too much, disillusioned by Eve's betrayal, depressed by her 40th birthday, she says admitting her age makes her "feel as if I've taken all my clothes off." She looks at Bill and bitterly says: "Bill's 32. He looks 32. He looked it five years ago. He'll look it 20 years from now. I hate men."

It was believed at the time that Davis' performance as Margo was inspired by Tallulah Bankhead. "Tallulah, understandably enough, did little to dispel the assumption," Mankiewicz tells Gary Carey in the book More About All About Eve. "On the contrary, she exploited it to the hilt with great skill and gusto." Press agents manufactured a feud between Davis and Bankhead, but Mankiewicz says neither he nor Davis was thinking of Bankhead when the movie was made. Davis could have found all the necessary inspiration from her own life.

Davis smokes all through the movie. In an age when stars used cigarettes as props, she doesn't smoke as behavior, or to express her moods, but because she wants to. The smoking is invaluable in setting her apart from others, separate from their support and needs; she is often seen within a cloud of smoke, which seems like her charisma made visible.

The movie's strength and weakness is Anne Baxter, whose Eve lacks the presence to be a plausible rival to Margo, but is convincing as the scheming fan. When Eve understudies for Margo and gets great reviews, Mankiewicz wisely never shows us her performance; better to imagine it, and focus on the girl whose look is a little too intense, whose eyes a little too focused, whose modesty is somehow suspect.

Mankiewicz (1909-1993) came from a family of writers; his brother Herman wrote "Citizen Kane." He won back-to-back Oscars for writing and directing "A Letter to Three Wives" in 1949 and "All About Eve" in 1950, and is also remembered for "The Ghost and Mrs. Muir" (1947), "The Barefoot Contessa" (1954) and "Guys and Dolls" (1955). He remained sharp-tongued all of his days. When "All About Eve" was recycled into the Broadway musical "Applause," Mankiewicz observed that the studio had received "infinitely more" in royalties than it paid him for writing and directing the film. He said he had no complaints. The reason they have the "no refunds" sign in the theater ticket window, he said, is to keep the rubes from calling the cops. 

BY ROGER EBERT / June 11, 2000 

Thursday, May 3, 2012

All about the after-party

For those of you who can't make it to Film Fatale's screening of All About Eve,  fear not: our  glamorous 1950's ball will be kicking off at 11pm.  Resident DJ's, the awe-inspiring Andrews Sisters' Brothers will have you dancing and swinging to famous dance floor fillers from the 40s and 50s. As well as a mix of swing, jazz, some rare gems of 1920's charleston, boogie-woogie and some vintage inspired modern treats thrown in for good measure.  
Here's a taster:




 

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

All about the hair

Bette Davis' glamorous early 50s hair do is very similar to the classic Rita Hayworth femme fatale do of the late 40s. Both feature side partings, a volumised but flat center and teased out curls. 
Here's a great video tutorial  on how to emulate Rita Hayworth's hair. To get the Bette look, simply part your hair at the side and using foam, heated curlers or tongs, curl the side with the split outwards and the other side inwards. Leaving the center of your head flat but with some volume which can be achieved by gentle back combing or blow drying before curling. When your curls are set, give them a little spritz of hair spray and gently tease with a comb. Frame around your face and then it's time for makeup. 
 

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

All About Rhubarb

All about Rhubarb, a delectable combination of  Jameson, Irish Honey & Rhubarb.